A first look at Cambodia, without rushing it thin
Five days is not long for Cambodia, and this route accepts that rather than fighting it. You get two nights in Phnom Penh, one long road day, and two nights in Siem Reap. Nothing else is squeezed in. It suits travellers with a week of leave, and it suits anyone adding Cambodia to a longer run through Vietnam or Thailand.
The two halves feel nothing alike. Phnom Penh is a working river capital that does not hide what happened here in the 1970s, and a day spent with a good guide there changes how the rest of the trip reads. Siem Reap is a small town built around a temple city that took generations to raise. You travel with a private guide and driver, start early because the heat and the coaches both build after ten, and keep your afternoons free.

Day by day
Day 1
Your guide meets you at Phnom Penh airport and drives you into the city, around forty minutes when traffic behaves. If you land early there is time to walk Sisowath Quay, where the Tonle Sap river runs into the Mekong and half the city turns out at dusk to sit by the water. Dinner is yours to choose and your guide will point out a few places near the hotel. Night in Phnom Penh.
Day 2
A full day in the capital. The Royal Palace opens at eight, and the Silver Pagoda next to it is best seen before the courtyards turn into an oven. After lunch you go to S-21, the secondary school the Khmer Rouge turned into a prison. It takes about two hours and your guide will keep it factual rather than theatrical. Breakfast at the hotel; night in Phnom Penh.
Day 3
North to Siem Reap after breakfast. It is roughly 315 kilometres on National Road 6, five to six hours with a lunch stop, through rice country, roadside markets and the stilt villages past Kampong Thom. The road is paved the whole way, though the surface deteriorates in patches. You reach Siem Reap mid-afternoon with the evening free; most people walk the night market and eat early. Night in Siem Reap.
Day 4
The temple day, begun at first light while the stone is still cool. You enter Angkor Thom through the south gate, cross the causeway lined with gods and demons, and spend an hour or more at the Bayon under its watching faces. Ta Prohm and its fig roots come next. Angkor Wat itself is kept for late afternoon, when the western galleries take the light. Breakfast at the hotel; night in Siem Reap.
Day 5
A boat morning on the Tonle Sap. You drive out to the landing and take a wooden boat into Kampong Phluk, where houses stand on stilts six metres clear of the dry-season mud and children paddle themselves to school. The lake swells and shrinks with the monsoon, so October looks nothing like March. Back in town for lunch, then your transfer to the airport. Breakfast at the hotel.
What the price covers
- Four nights in hotels we choose with you, twin or double, breakfast every morning
- Private English-speaking guide in Phnom Penh and in Siem Reap
- Air-conditioned car with driver for all sightseeing and transfers
- The road transfer between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap
- Entrance fees for every site named above, the Angkor pass included
- Wooden boat hire on the Tonle Sap
- Airport pick-up on arrival and drop-off on departure
- Drinking water in the vehicle and one local number to call at any hour
Not included
- Flights into Phnom Penh and out of Siem Reap
- Cambodian visa, which most passport holders obtain online or on arrival
- Travel insurance, which we ask every traveller to hold
- Lunches, dinners and drinks other than those listed
- Tips, laundry and personal spending
- Single room supplement if you travel alone
Good to know
The pace is gentle except for two days. Day 3 is mostly spent sitting in a vehicle, and Day 4 is long, hot and on your feet. You should be comfortable walking three or four kilometres over uneven stone. The steep temple staircases are always optional and there is a ground-level route around everything on the itinerary.
- March to May is the hot season and midday often passes 35C. December and January are dry and far kinder.
- Shoulders and knees have to be covered for the upper level of Angkor Wat and inside the Royal Palace grounds.
- From February to June the lake sits low, boats keep to the main channels and the villages look very different.
- Carry small US dollar notes for everyday spending; change usually comes back in riel.
- We can replace the road transfer with the short flight to Siem Reap if you would rather keep the day.
- S-21 is heavy going for younger children, and we will plan a different afternoon for families who ask.

Plan this trip
- Days
- 5
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